This text is an automatic translation from Русский. It was generated by AI and may contain inaccuracies.
Read original →This text is an automatic translation from Русский. It was generated by AI and may contain inaccuracies.
Read original →Wine expert Dmitry Nechaev on the prospects for Russian Krasnostop in the global market, the Cypriot winemaking boom, and non-alcoholic wines as the leading trend. Why indigenous varieties are displacing the classics and what alcohol-free wine production technology costs.

— Cyprus is politically divided into two parts—Greek and Turkish. Is this division felt in the wine industry? Is there any interaction between winemakers from both sides?
— In Northern Cyprus there's only one winery, Etel, founded by a couple from Israel who brought international grape varieties with them. The Republic of Cyprus has over fifty operating wineries, and their numbers grow every year. Thanks to the efforts of local wine enthusiasts and oenologists, recent years have seen successful work in identifying Cyprus's indigenous varieties—today every self-respecting winemaker tries to experiment with old vines. A brilliant example of a successful discovery is the dense red Yiannoudi; the white varieties Promara and Spourtiko show excellent results, and we must note the extremely successful examples of barrel aging the white Xynisteri variety, long considered suitable only for cheap 'beach wines.'
— How has wine tourism in Cyprus changed in recent years? Are wine connoisseurs coming here specifically for local wineries, or does the wine route remain a niche offering?
— In recent years, modern wineries have opened that invite guests not only for standard tastings but also for themed festivals and events. Worth mentioning are wineries like Tsiakkas, Vlassides, and Marathasa.
— How do Cypriot winemakers compete with wines from neighboring regions—Greece, Italy, Lebanon, Israel? Does Cyprus have a chance to stand out as a "new wine niche" in the Mediterranean?
— For international wine consumers, Cyprus is often lumped in with Greece, which I think is rather advantageous right now—Greek wines are currently the hottest thing on the wine lists of trendy New York bars. The well-known wine critic Eric Asimov regularly publishes rankings of Greek wines in his The New York Times column, which often leads to small production runs from various Greek family wineries being contracted for several years in advance. Cyprus has a winery that has managed to attract international attention with a successful showing at Europe's largest wine fair, KolnWein—the Paphos-based family winery Vouni Panayia, whose new generation of oenologists has diversified traditional wines with a fashionable line of 'micro-vinifications' that has already made it onto wine lists in London and New York restaurants.
— Cyprus traditionally has a strong Russian-speaking community. Do you notice any interest from locals or restaurateurs in Russian wines? Is there any presence of them on the island at all?
— No, except perhaps someone might bring a bottle or two as a gift for private tastings.
— Does Russia have potential to occupy the niche of 'premium cold climate wines,' similar to Canada and New Zealand, and which grape varieties are best adapted to this trend?
— There's a persistent global trend of growing interest in indigenous wines—consumers are tired of traditional international varieties and are turning their attention to wines with unfamiliar names from unexpected countries. I believe that when the geopolitical situation changes, Krasnostop has a real shot at success in the international market.
— Which technological trends—organic, biodynamic, 'natural wines,' zero-intervention—most strongly affect Europe's export potential, and are they applicable in Russia? How sustainable do Europe's classic wine regions (Burgundy, Piedmont, Rioja) remain amid growing competition from the New World and Eastern Europe?
— All of the above are also part of wine culture; right now all these trends work primarily to attract new wine consumers. The glou-glou wine concept is indeed appealing in its simplicity and accessibility—after all, it's no secret that for young people the classic wine world can seem complicated, old-fashioned, and snobbish. It's clear that an engaged person will sooner or later figure things out on their own, and their focus will likely shift toward wines from classic regions over time. Right now we're witnessing successful market adaptation to the demands of new consumers, which makes it all the more interesting to follow.
— Do you see genuine consumer interest in non-alcoholic wine, or is it mostly marketing and hype?
— Non-alcoholic wine is undoubtedly the next big thing worldwide—wellness is in fashion, forty-year-old managers are running marathons more than hitting bars, and young people are enthusiastically embracing something new and unusual.
— If producers are required to return the alcohol during non-alcoholic wine production, it will be 2-3 times more expensive than conventional wine. Do you think the Russian market is ready for the price point of 'wine without alcohol costs more than regular wine'?
— Classic European winemakers, who sell their name and history more than the actual wine, are already sounding the alarm, worried about their future profits, but even they, after grumbling, will be forced to adapt. There are several fundamentally different approaches to producing non-alcoholic wines, and as usual, some are cheaper and less tasty, while others are far more expensive but more promising. Vacuum distillation, in my view, isn't really about wine—it kills the initial aromatics and loses the classic wine intensity. Such non-alcoholic wine is hard to love—it's more of a temporary psychological substitute before getting behind the wheel, since sitting with an empty glass among friends isn't quite acceptable. A different matter entirely is the recently invented spinning cones—columns that separate aromas and alcohol in layers under low pressure and moderate heat. It's an expensive technology—such equipment integrated into classic wine production will cost at least a million euros, and it will likely increase the cost of such wine by at least 80%, and even more if Rosalkogoltabakkontrol introduces additional requirements. But nothing ventured, nothing gained—or in this case, no non-alcoholic champagne.
— How does the industry view non-alcoholic trends: as a threat to classic alcohol or a potentially new source of profit?
— The market is still open; with producers lowering their margins in the process of introducing a new product to shelves, the starting price will likely be only slightly higher than regular wine to remain accessible while immediately demonstrating its superiority over the classic version. Plus, introducing such wines into producers' portfolios will surely delight their marketing departments, since they'll be easier to advertise widely. Therefore, in my view, we can expect serious changes on wine store shelves in the near future, and the real winners will be those winemakers who are already installing the appropriate equipment at their facilities—it would be foolish not to seize such a business opportunity.